“First eat, then talk” is what an Afghan proverb says. According to tradition, the guest should be fed first and then asked about the destination.
Afghan cuisine is extremely rich and varied. It is a fusion of Central Asian, South Asian and Middle Eastern cuisines. The cuisine is largely based on rice, which is the main ingredient in most dishes, as well as mutton, beef and poultry. In Afghanistan, people eat a lot of fruit and vegetables, both fresh and dried. Among the most popular fruits are apples, apricots, grapes, bananas, oranges, plums, pomegranates, sweet melons, watermelons and sultanas.
Afghan cuisine is characterised by the extensive use of spices such as coriander, mint and saffron. Spices are an important part of sauces playing a significant role in this cuisine. All dishes and especially sauces must be well seasoned. The very large number of spices in Afghan cuisine is due to Indian cooking. Despite the extensive use of spices, Afghans do not like their dishes to be too spicy, but they still need to be distinctive.
Each dish is served with naan bread. There are several types of bread. There is an oblong naan loaf of bread with a thick and thin crust. There is also a round naan loaf of bread with a ‘needle-like’ pattern in the middle and a round naan loaf with plump edges. They all taste very similar.
Afghan cuisine is characterised by the extensive use of spices such as coriander, mint and saffron. Spices are an important part of sauces playing a significant role in this cuisine. All dishes and especially sauces must be well seasoned. The very large number of spices in Afghan cuisine is due to Indian cooking. Despite the extensive use of spices, Afghans do not like their dishes to be too spicy, but they still need to be distinctive.
Each dish is served with naan bread. There are several types of bread. There is an oblong naan loaf of bread with a thick and thin crust. There is also a round naan loaf of bread with a ‘needle-like’ pattern in the middle and a round naan loaf with plump edges. They all taste very similar.
Skewers (kabab) are also popular in Afghanistan. Cubes of mutton or chicken are stuffed onto wooden or metal rods, alternating with pieces of mutton fat and onion rings. The whole thing is sprinkled with herbs and hot peppers and grilled over glowing lumps of charcoal.
Other typical dishes which Afghan cuisine is famous for include aush (tomato stock soup with noodles), kebab, sabzi challaw (lamb with spinach and spices), baklava or firnee (pudding with ground pistachio nuts).
Tea is served with almost all meals. Black tea, green tea and zofran are the main beverages. In the north-eastern part of the country, a very unique kind of tea called Shor Chai is served, containing black tea with cream, milk and walnut grains.
A traditional meal in Afghanistan is eaten on a tablecloth spread on the floor. Meals are served with thick yoghurt (mast), in which bread can be dipped or which may be added to rice, and a salad of fresh vegetables. The cutlery used for meals is a spoon and a fork.
The basic rule of behaviour during a meal is to share food. Meals should be eaten in company. There is a belief in the blessing of a shared meal, which flows down to everyone eating together. A guest’s refusal to eat may be interpreted as an expression of his superiority over the host, or even as an attempt to subjugate him.
For Afghans, two moments are important during the day – time for prayer and time for a meal. In government offices, private businesses and shops, when noon comes and it is time to eat (waght-e none czoszt), the smell of rice and mutton spreads and most people engage in eating.
Recipes are extremely important and have remained unchanged for generations. Below is a recipe for Afghanistan’s most famous dish.
Kabuli Palaw is the national dish of Afghanistan. It is prepared in almost every home on the occasion of various family celebrations. The dish owes its unique flavour to properly prepared rice with an aromatic sauce based on onions, cumin, coriander and cardamom – the rice is baked in the oven and served with sweet carrots, sultanas, almonds and meat. This is usually lamb, but for a vegan version lentils would also work well.
The rice itself, which is the most important ingredient in the dish, must be of good quality – strong enough to retain its structure during the cooking process and, despite absorbing a lot of liquid, it should remain firm and grains of rice should stick together only slightly. The basmati variety is recommended. According to Afghan tradition, Kabuli Palaw is eaten without the use of chopsticks with the right hand only, using naan bread.
Kabuli Palaw
INGREDIENTS
3 cups of basmati rice (approx. 500 g)
1 kg lamb (more can be prepared)
2 large onions
1 cup of broth
3 carrots
½ cup of almonds
1 cup of sultanas
50 g unsalted pistachios (weight after peeling)
3 tbsp of brown sugar
2 teaspoons of ground cumin
1 teaspoon of ground cardamom
1 teaspoon of ground coriander
1 teaspoon of ground turmeric
1 teaspoon of freshly ground black pepper
salt
olive oil
PREPARATION
Mix the spices: cumin, cardamom, coriander, turmeric and pepper together with 1 teaspoon of salt.
Wash and dry the lamb thighs thoroughly. Cut them in halves. Rub them with half of the prepared spice mixture and set aside.
Dice or chop the onion into rings. Pour about 50 ml of olive oil into a frying pan. Heat it and then throw in the onions. Fry everything until it is golden brown.
Next, throw in the meat and fry over medium heat.
Pour in half of a cup of broth and cook everything over medium heat. When the broth has evaporated, pour in the other half of a cup of broth. Bring to a boil and cover the pan with a lid. Cook the dish for another 10 minutes until the sauce turns dark brown.
Remove the meat from the pan and transfer to a plate. You can now discard any excess fat. Add the remaining seasoning to the remaining sauce. Cook everything over low heat for 5 minutes until thickened. Cover and set aside.
Peel and cut the carrots into matchsticks. Pour half of a cup of water and sugar into a separate pan, bring to a boil and add the carrots. Cook everything until it gets tender. Pour out the remaining water. Add 2 tbsp of olive oil, sultanas and almonds. Fry over low heat for 5 minutes. Cover with a lid and set aside.
In the meantime, rinse the rice under running water and cook it al dente in 6 litres of water with 2 teaspoons of salt. Traditionally rice is cooked by steaming, but I find cooking it in water is quicker and easier. It should take about 10 minutes. Drain the rice in a colander, then add it to the pan with the broth-based sauce. Stir thoroughly so that the rice absorbs all the sauce.
Place the rice in a large ovenproof dish and place the meat pieces on top. Place in a preheated oven at 260 °C for about 15 minutes.
Reduce the heat to 120 °C and top the dish with the prepared carrots, sultanas and almonds and bake for another 20 minutes.
Serve the finished kabuli palaw sprinkled with chopped pistachios.
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